Who has not dined at least once in an ’80s Chinese restaurant that carried the name ‘The Great Wall’? At least you have been at one for a take-away. Yes, you do! Besides the big orange and white goldfish, of course, also a painting of the magnificent wall gliding through remote mountains of the Chinese Empire. And, the privileged among the readers of this post who have traveled to China, might even have gazed at the beauty of this 6,000 kilometers long wall in real life. We are, however, not sure tourists will do the same in 500 years from now at the walls and fences of, let’s say, Hungary.
No, there is a lot of controversy about walls today. Take for example the high walls and fences that have been built in Morocco around the Spanish enclaves Melilla and Ceuta, which are being stormed by migrants every now and then. But other walls too, are subject to much debate. Yes, the wall between Mexico and the United States. Inevitable not to mention this wall. The US administration has been working on it intensively since the Secure Fence Act of 2006, already. Like his predecessors, current President Trump is very occupied with it too.
What if we look at the historic walls in Western Europe? The first observation must be that walls are almost as old as mankind. Better, they are part of civilization. Furthermore, we cannot ignore the conclusion that the Italians are (also) the godfathers of modern defensive walls. And maybe they still are…
And, there is an additional advantage or lesson by doing this short exercise. It turned out several long-distance hiking trails have been developed along several of these ancient and once deterring walls. Yes, defensive walls capture our imagination, past and present! From Great Wall to great walk.
King Lud’s Intrenchments (UK) – ca 1.3 km
The oldest wall was built in Britain. According to archaeologists, during the Middle Bronze Age between ca. 1500-1000 BC. However, the Celtic King Lud lived in the first century, if we trust the manuscript Historia Regum Britanniae written in the twelfth century. So, archaeologists and historians have some ground to cover together, if they want to connect King Lud with this wall. King Lud is tradionally considered the founder of Trinovantum (i.e. London) too.
The location of his intrenchments is halfway east of the imaginary north-south line, between the villages Croxton Kerrial and Sproxton in Leicestershire. The banks and ditches contained within the around 1.3 kilometers long constraint area, are an average of 20 meters wide. Earthworks include three parallel banks separated by two ditches. Quite an obstacle course.
The earthworks between Croxton Kerrial and Sproxton may be part of an extensive prehistoric boundary system, stretching from around Northampton all the way to the river Humber. This boundary system, or wall, is known as the Jurassic Spine. The King Lud’s Intrenchments are aligned at right angles to the main components of this system.
Although not the completely identical to the course of the earthworks, there is a long-distance hiking trail of ca. 240 kilometers called the Viking Way that follows more or less the Jurassic Spine boundary system. The Viking Way was set up to reflect the former Danelaw territories. The Viking Way starts/end at the river Humber in the north, and ends at Rutland Water near Oakham in the south. At Section 12, just north of the former military airfield, you come across -in a right angle of the path- King Lud’s Intrenchments at its eastern end.
Limes Germanicus (NL, DE, AU) – ca 1800 km
Built by the Romans during the first century, this wall defended the Empire against Germanic tribes. The northern part of the Limes Germanicus was erected from 47, after the Romans had suffered multiple defeats against Germanic tribes north and east of the river (Old-) Rhine. The two most talked-about battles, are the Battle of the Teutoburg Forest in the year 9, near the present-day city of Osnabrück in Germany, and the Battle of the Baduhenna Forest in 28, near the present-day town of Heiloo in the Netherlands. In the Teutoburg Forest the Romans were slaughtered by a coalition of Germanic tribes. In the Baduhenna Forest the Romans were defeated by the Frisii ‘the Frisians’. Want to know more about the Battle of Baduhenna? read our blog post Frisian mercenaries in the Roman Army.
The Limes Germanicus started/ended at the mouth of the river Old-Rhine at the Netherlands’ North Sea coast, where the current towns of Katwijk and Rijnsburg are located. From here, the limes followed the river Old-Rhine up-stream, all the way to the current city of Arnhem in the east of the Netherlands. Castella ‘fortresses”dotted frequently along the west- or south banks, and the mighty river Rhine functioning as a very big moat. In Germany, the Limes Germanicus continued to follow the banks of the river Rhine until the town of Rheinbrohl. From here it headed east to castle Eining at the river Donau, to continue all the way to the splendid city of Vienna. The limes between Rheinbrohl and castle Eining ran through the wooded mountain ranges of Odenwald and the Black Forest. Here, in the forested mountains, the wall was made of wood but later also partly of stone.
Quite recently, the Romeinse Limespad ‘Roman Limes Path’ has been developed for the stretch of the Limes Germanicus in the Netherlands. A modest long-distance trail along the river Rhine.
Hadrian’s Wall (UK) – 120 km
This stone wall was built from 122. It ran between the present-day towns of Wallsend in the east, and Bowness-on-Solway in the west, in England. Thus, from the North Sea to the Irish Sea. The wall was built to protect Romano-Britannia against the Celtic tribes, notoriously the Picts.
The Roman Empire made full use of mercenaries in their army, also to defend the external borders. Also many Frisian mercenaries. Both the Frisii and the Frisiavones, the latter being the romanized Frisians (IJssennagger, 2017), were enrolled and stationed at Hadrian’s Wall. Several inscriptions on pagan altar stones testify of their presence, besides remains of Frisian pottery does too. We even know the name of one of the Frisian chieftains who did the watch at the wall. No, it is not Jon Snow, but Notfrid. Read also our blog post on these Frisian mercenaries in the Roman Army. Know also, that Notfid has been indicted by the ICTF, read our PRESS RELEASE: Concensus Frisia Tribunal.
There is an excellent, modest long-distance trail along Hadrian’s Wall, the Handrian’s Wall Path.
Antonine Wall (UK) – 65 km
Construction of this wall started two decennia after Hadrian’s Wall was built, namely in 142. It ran between present-day Firth of Forth in the east, and Firth of Clyde in the west, in Scotland. Its purpose too was to protect Romano-Britannia against the Caledonian tribes. Just like its older and bigger brother Hadrian’s Wall more to the south. This time the wall was made of turf. Maybe it was a rush job.
After only eight years the Romans abandoned it already, and retreated behind Hadrian’s Wall more to the south again. In the year 208, the Romans made an effort to reinforce the Antonine Wall, but they gave up soon after. No, not their turf.
Offa’s Dyke (UK) – 240 km
This earthwork wall, or indeed dry dike (also dic), dates from the second half of the eighth centuries, and follows roughly the current border between Wales and England. This thanks to the Welsh monk Asser who lived at the eind of the ninth and the beginning of the tenth century. It is thought to have been built by King Offa of Mercia, who lived in the second haf of the eighth century. On the western, Welsh side, in front of the wall was a ditch. Offa’s Dyke, in Welsh Clawdd Offa, ran more or less from the estuary of the river Dee in the north, to Tidenham on the river Severn in the south.
Like Hadrian’s Wall there is an excellent trail along Offa’s Dyke too, the Offa’s Dyke Path.
Besides the early-medieval Offa’s Dyke, many more walls and/or defensive earthworks from around this period have been erected. Like Wat’s Dyke (together with Offa’s Dyke) at the northern border between England/Mercia and Wales, the Fleam Dyke in Cambridgeshire (5 kilometers), and the Black Ditches at Cavenham, Suffolk. Concerning Fleam Dyke, some Middle Bronze Age pot sherds have been traced, pushing the construction date possibly to 3000-1500 BC. Furthermore, the Wansdyke, or Wodnes dic (viz Wodan’s dike), between Mercia and Wessex running through Wiltshire and Somerset, and dikes to protect the Kingdom of Kent, must be mentioned. This dike surfaces in history in tenth-century charters. To the latter border belong the Feastendic ‘strong dike’ in Joyden’s Wood, Cray Valley, and the ditches on the Surrey-Kent border near Westerham.
Devil’s Dyke (UK) – 12 km
The Devil’s Dyke is a probably fifth- or sixth-century defensive earthwork of 12 kilometers long, which was built near Wood Ditton, Cambridgeshire. Besides possible Anglo-Saxon origin, even megalith origins are being considered. This structure lies on the border of the Anglo-Saxon kingdoms of East Anglia and Mercia. It was built by the East Anglians against their Mercian neighbors. The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle refers to the Devil’s Dyke in its annals at 905.
Earlier names are Saint Edmund’s Dyke, Great Ditch and Reach Dyke. Only with the arrival of William the Conqueror, it was named Devil’s Dyke.
Danevirke (DK) – 30 km
The earliest parts of the Danevirke ‘Danish (earth)works’ were built around 500. The wall was expanded during the Viking Age. Hence the name Danevirke. It ran between the former Viking port of Hedeby (also Haithabu) near present-day Schleswig in the east, then bordering the river Treene, it continued to the salt marshes of Kreis Nordfriesland in the west, in Germany.
It was the Viking-King Gudfred who strengthened the wall because he feared the Franks, after they had conquered the Frisian and Saxon kingdoms over the course of the eighth century. With securing Hedeby against the Franks, also the rich trade between the North Sea and the Baltic Sea, via the rivers Treene and Eider, was secured. This trade was, by the way, dominated by Frisian merchants who had colonized the tidal marshlands and islands of Nordfriesland, i.e. the wider region where the river Eider flows into the Wadden Sea. Read our blog post Porcupine bore U.S. bucks to learn more about the magnitude of the early-medieval Frisian free trade.
The Danevirke proved to be a success, you might say. Never were the Danes conquered during the Middle Ages, neither by the Franks nor by their allies the Slavs.
Lastly, we mention the oldest wall of Denmark, Olgediget ‘Old Dike’. It is built early-third century, and located east of the town of Tinglev. With that it is the oldest defense wall of Jutland. The wall with moat was about 12 kilometers long and ‘closed’ the land between the sea and the river Vidå. Palisades flanked the west side of the moat.
Suggestions for accompanying music:
Suggestions for further reading and hiking:
- Brooks, S. & Harrington, S., The Kingdom and People of Kent AD 400-1066. Their History and Archaeology (2010)
- Carter, K. & Stedman H., Offa’s Dyke Path (2015)
- Fox, A.W., A Lost Frontier Revealed. Regional separation in the East Midlands. Studies in Regional and local History. Volume 7 (2009)
- Howard, W., Dykes through Time: Rethinking Early Medieval Linear Earthworks (2017)
- Johnson, B., Anglo-Saxon Sites in Britain, blog Historic UK (2019)
- Klein, M. & Geerenstein, van H. (ed), Romeinse Limespad. Wandelen langs de grens van het Romeinse Rijk in Nederland (2018)
- Goldsworthy, A., Hadrian’s Wall (2018)
- Newman, H., Was the Devil’s Dyke in England once Part of the Legendary City of Troy? (2017)
- Stedman, H. & McCrohan, D., Hadrian’s Wall Path (2006)