More Flying ‘Dutchmen’. Learnings From a Simple Innkeeper in Groningen

On the first of February 2020, one of the Frisian bastards of the Frisia Coast Trail tramped the trail section from the town of Bad Nieuweschans to the small village of Termunten. It is a hike of thirty kilometers along the southern shores of the Dollart Bight. The day before, in the evening, the bastardContinue reading “More Flying ‘Dutchmen’. Learnings From a Simple Innkeeper in Groningen”

Happy Hunting Grounds in the Arctic. The Way the Whale’s Doom Was Sealed

If you want to track down who killed the whale, the Frisia Coast Trail region is the place to start. Stop people on the streets along this southern North Sea littoral and ask whether they know anything, and you will likely hear: “I hear nothing, I see nothing, I know nothing.” Politicians and officials —Continue reading “Happy Hunting Grounds in the Arctic. The Way the Whale’s Doom Was Sealed”

Yet Another Wayward Archipelago — The Wadden Sea

The peoples of islands and archipelagos do not let others dictate how to live their lives. One of those archipelagos that meets these criteria as well is the Wadden Sea. For centuries, it is from here that sea explorers, tax evaders, sturdy Arctic whalers, self-righteous women, pirates, privateers, and other vagabonds have come. An archipelagoContinue reading “Yet Another Wayward Archipelago — The Wadden Sea”

With a Noose through the Norsemen’s Door

Although the conversion of the Woden-devoted Frisians was a slow and cumbersome process that only succeeded in depth in the tenth century, Frisia subsequently turned into the richest ecclesiastical area of Europe. Nowhere else on the Isles and the Continent were there this many monasteries and churches packed together. Even though nearly all monasteries haveContinue reading “With a Noose through the Norsemen’s Door”

Frisia, a Viking Graveyard

Hjoggum vér með hjörvi — ‘we swung our swords’ — as all the stanzas of the twelfth-century epic poem Lay of Kraka begin, the tale of Ragnar Lothbrok’s death. When reading about the famous deeds of great Viking warriors, little attention is given to their moments of failure. Little is written about where and when thoseContinue reading “Frisia, a Viking Graveyard”

History Is Written by the Victors — A Story of the Credits

New York City, the Capital of the World. They call it a lot of things: Gotham, the Big Apple, the Empire City, Modern Gomorrah, even Baghdad-on-the-Subway. And of course, Times Square proudly calls itself the Center of the Universe — although the true center of the world is the village of Aegum. And in theContinue reading “History Is Written by the Victors — A Story of the Credits”

Presence of Mind to Ask the Right Question — Hiking the GR20

‘The path will provide,’ is a familiar saying among hikers while on the trail. The flip side of this attitude is you might not have the keenness to recognize an exceptional opportunity. Your mind gets lazy. It is exactly what happened to one of the Frisian bastards during his solo hike through the harsh mountainsContinue reading “Presence of Mind to Ask the Right Question — Hiking the GR20”

A Wadden Sea Guide and His Twelve Disciples — Hiking on the Sea

For those outdoor enthusiasts who consider hiking the mudflats of the Wadden Sea, it is essential to know that this is not just a worldly journey but a spiritual one. The entire Frisia Coast is, in a way, a spiritual belt, protecting the southern coast of the North Sea against northern darkness, according to earlyContinue reading “A Wadden Sea Guide and His Twelve Disciples — Hiking on the Sea”

Expelled From Regal Grounds, the Soils of Wijnaldum

July 1987. The two Frisian bastards, both being sixteen years old at the time, went to the village of Wijnaldum – Winaem in the Mid-Frisian language. Reason to go was twofold. Firstly, the yearly street kaatsen tournament was taking place that day. Secondly, one of their most beautiful classmates, Gerda, lived close to Wijnaldum. TheContinue reading “Expelled From Regal Grounds, the Soils of Wijnaldum”

The Killing Fields, of the Celts

About 2,000 years ago, a tragedy unfolded. A sixteen-year-old girl, who had suffered from scoliosis during her young life, was killed. Her red hair was shaved off on one side, she was stabbed at the base of her neck on the right shoulder, and strangled with a woollen rope. After this, she was placed inContinue reading “The Killing Fields, of the Celts”