One Day, All the Sunken Church Bells Will Surface and Speak to Us Sternly

Imagine a time unlike ours. When there were no engines, amplifiers, and speakers, and the sounds you heard were made by the actions of men, beasts, or the elements of nature. Be quiet and listen. Can you hear the chatter of children and vendors, and the hooves of horses on the streets? Can you hearContinue reading “One Day, All the Sunken Church Bells Will Surface and Speak to Us Sternly”

“Ich Mag Ihre Pelzer- und Schustertöchter Nicht!” — And a Kiss of Death

Like everywhere along the Wadden Sea shores in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, the small republics of the tidal marshlands fought battle after battle against foreign aggressors seeking to subdue them. Counts, bishops, and cities alike tried to lay their hands on these fertile and strategically located lands. And if the threat was not fromContinue reading ““Ich Mag Ihre Pelzer- und Schustertöchter Nicht!” — And a Kiss of Death”

When the Gate of Hell Opened at the Golden Necklace

When you enter the province of Friesland from the west by car via the Afsluitdijk (‘closure dam’) and continues on the A7 Hwy, you will pass a viaduct carrying the name Okkehel. If your destination is the port of Harlingen, also in the area, you might spot in its harbour bright green sloops of theContinue reading “When the Gate of Hell Opened at the Golden Necklace”

Who’s Afraid of Voracious Woolf? — The Dread Beast Is Back

Who’s afraid of Jóða Fenris, ‘the offspring of Fenrir’? Afraid of hund hrynsævar hræva, ‘the hound of the roaring sea of corpses’? Who, today, fears the wolf? The dark creature that once haunted the shadowed forests of the East is rising again in Europe. Nearly two centuries have passed, yet the wolf has returned toContinue reading “Who’s Afraid of Voracious Woolf? — The Dread Beast Is Back”

A Frisian Warlord Who Ruled in Brittany, Until His Wife Cheated on Him  

Where the English Channel meets the Celtic Sea, the ships of the Frisian brothers Corsold and Coarchion are said to have sailed, raided, and held sway in the early sixth century. For a time, they may even have established a short-lived kingdom in Brittany. Breton legend holds that the village of Kersaout — modern-day CorseulContinue reading “A Frisian Warlord Who Ruled in Brittany, Until His Wife Cheated on Him  “

Late Little Prayers at the Lorelei Rock. Reckless Rhine Skippers in Distress

On the west bank of the mighty River Rhine, halfway between the cities of Koblenz and Mainz, lies the town of Sankt Goar. Named after Saint Goar of Aquitaine, a hermit who retreated here in the sixth century. Diagonally across the river stands the famous and mystical Lorelei Rock: steep and over 130 meters high.Continue reading “Late Little Prayers at the Lorelei Rock. Reckless Rhine Skippers in Distress”

Don’t Believe Everything They Say About Sweet Cunera

Imagine this: one day your husband brings home a young, unmarried woman. A virgin, even. He simply takes her into your house, openly shows her affection — and who knows what else. But that is not all. He also gives this maiden full access to your pantry and your savings account, which she — forContinue reading “Don’t Believe Everything They Say About Sweet Cunera”

Walfrid, You’ll Never Walk Alone

This blog post is not about Aindreas Ó Céirín (1840-1915), better known as Brother Walfrid from Ireland and who founded the Scottish football club Celtic. No, this blog post is about the original, the one and only. The Frisian named Walfrid. Who was murdered by a bunch of roaming Vikings in the late tenth century.Continue reading “Walfrid, You’ll Never Walk Alone”

Like Father, Unlike Son — Un Saint Frison en France

The Battle of Tours in 732 was a turning point in the wars against the Umayyad Caliphate. The Caliphate was one of the biggest empires in history, but it lost this battle. At the confluence of the rivers Clain and Vienne, the Franks, led by statesman majordomo Charles Martel, only just managed to defeat theContinue reading “Like Father, Unlike Son — Un Saint Frison en France”

Yet Another Wayward Archipelago — The Wadden Sea

The peoples of islands and archipelagos do not let others dictate how to live their lives. One of those archipelagos that meets these criteria as well is the Wadden Sea. For centuries, it is from here that sea explorers, tax evaders, sturdy Arctic whalers, self-righteous women, pirates, privateers, and other vagabonds have come. An archipelagoContinue reading “Yet Another Wayward Archipelago — The Wadden Sea”